blank Home blank Current Sale blank Seasonal Hours blank Renewed Earth blank Delivery blankblankContact Us blank
Header
Browse Our Products

Left Logos

Tools

Here is a sampling of tools commonly used for landscaping in the Midwest. The tool companies are constantly coming up with new ideas for tools, and variations of existing designs. What is presented here are the basics, there are thousands of niche tools and variations of the basic landscaping tools which are not presented here. Normally a professional landscaper is not going to have the latest widget on the truck from XYZ Marketing. There are certainly tool fanatics out there that enjoy having a tool for every occasion, that’s fine too. In general, stick to the basic tools to get the broadest range of uses out of them.

Tool quality is most often some function of price given a store with many choices. Pricing between stores may vary substantially. Homeowners often may be able to find a good value in a less expensive yet sturdy, well made tool. A Contractor who uses the tools everyday is more likely to get a better value out of a more expensive tool which is made for using on a daily basis versus the homeowner who may use it only a couple times per year.

Quality issues to consider are gauge of steel, type of steel, how the steel is formed, are there additional collars to join handle and head. The better tool handles are made from high quality wood. Some higher quality tools may have a handle other than wood. Consider the weight differences, flex and likely durability of the handle when choosing. Like any other tool type of tool, if you use it often you will learn to appreciate the quality. A round tip or square tip shovel used a couple times a year by a homeowner does not need to be a $40.00 shovel with a fancy white ash wood handle. In a few cases as mentioned below there are tools where it is not desirable to go with a cheap one.

Another final point to considerate is the weight of the tool. If you are going to put in long days on the end of a tool a lighter tool will use less energy.


Shovels:

Round point

Round point shovels are good for digging in soft to medium hard soil. They can penetrate the soil by stepping on the top edge of the metal shovel head and working the tip into the earth.

 

 

Square point

Square point shovels are not very good for digging in undisturbed ground. The blade is more blunt than a round point or spade shovel with sides slightly curved up. It is hard to get the shovel to penetrate undisturbed ground. Square point shovels are good for moving heavy loose bulk items like topsoil and stone less than 3”. This type of shovel is especially good for shoveling a delivered pile of bulk material off a paved or cement surface. When filling the shovel shove the shovel along the smooth top surface of the driveway under the stone and it will bury deep into the pile making it easy to get a full shovel.

Spade shovel

Spade shovels are good for digging. They typically come in 4” and 6” wide and will penetrate medium to hard undisturbed earth. These work better than rounded shovels for make straight dug out holes and trenches. These shovels don’t work well for moving heavy materials from a pile to another location or for filling up wheelbarrows. The lack of sides and the fairly flat shape make it so they don’t hold much material.

Scoop shovel

Scoop shovels are good for moving bulk lightweight materials like fine mulch. They work similar to the square point shovel except they have much higher volume capacity. Just like the Square point shovel, the key to getting good scoop shovel full is working off the bottom of the pile shoving the shovel in along the smooth hard surface into the pile. Scoop shovels are not for digging but they can be useful in the winter if you need to move a snow pile which has grown unexpectedly large. You can also use a scoop shovel to sit on and slide down a hill although this is not recommended.

Trenching shovel

Trenching shovels are constructed as a narrow scoop with a slight banana shape. They do penetrate undisturbed soil nicely. The shape allows digging of narrow trenches by being able to get a shovel full out of tight spots. The slight banana shape and curved edges allows it to be able to get more soil out the hole or trench each time than a spade shovel.

Snow Shovel

There are more shapes and sizes of snow shovels than any other type of shovel. Snow shovels typically range in width from 18” to 36” with a 24” plastic pusher combo the most common. These days snow shovels are mostly curved up towards the back which helps the snow roll over itself as it is pushed forward.

Nearly useless is the old flat shovels which are meant to get a shovel full of snow then throw it on a pile. The idea with the pushers is that when shoved quickly forward the snow rolls or shoots forward like a wave in the direction you are thrusting the shovel. This snow spraying forward is desirable because then you do not have to physically lift the snow and throw it. The thrusting of the shovel moves more snow with less effort. Most of the pushers like that now incorporate an 8" or 10" long flat portion of the shovel so when some snow does need to be scooped up say near the edge of a driveway or walk, it can do that also.

The other choice to make is plastic or steel construction. All steel shovels are very durable will last a long time but tend to be very heavy. Every time you move the shovel you are moving extra weight. A large steel shovel would typically only be preferred by a big aggressive shoveller. Plastic shovels are lighter; they do wear out quicker, which typically is not a big issue. If you do it professionally you may go through a few shovels a year, still not a big deal if it works for you.

Some plastic shovels come with a metal strip on the leading edge. These types of shovels (and the steel shovels) clean up stuck ice and snow better than a shovel without the metal leading edge, but the metal strip or metal shovel is more likely to get caught on sidewalk ridges and other pavement irregularities. If walks are heavily maintained often times the professionals prefer a non-metal lip on the plastic shovel. As a plastic shovel wears down it often wears down nicely so the leading edge is flat and continues to function nicely even when a substantial amount of plastic is wore down.

Shovel Summary:

There are numerous other variations of handle configurations, scoop shape size, and metal plastic combinations. Each manufacturer tries to out-do the other with a new and improved handle or whatever, but basically its still work to shovel snow. Preferred shovel size is typically related to the size of the shoveller. Smaller people generally will want to work with a small 18” shovel. Larger or aggressive shovellers typically prefer larger shovels sometimes up to 36” wide.

When shoveling snow, especially if you are not physically active, pay close attention to posture and hand positioning. Keep in mind general lifting rules, in other words be nice to your spine. When you lift a shovel full of snow the closer the snow is to your body the less heavy it will seem. Consider your best techniques given your own physical condition.

There are often short and long handle choices for shovels. Short handle shovels force you to have the shovelhead closer to your body. This may be beneficial for shovels which are designed to have a lot of weight and/or volume where you may want the extra leverage and control.

Even the best shovels are not indestructible. At some point in a landscape construction you will find yourself reefing back to pry a rock or root loose. A shovel is not a pry bar, before reefing on your shovel consider that it’s a 1” round stick, which has a breaking point. Consider this especially if you are physically fit and over 200 lbs. Your foot pressure can be enough to bend the head, and you will be able to break the handle easily when using a shovel as a pry bar.


Rakes:

Leaf rakes

There are typically two types of leaf rakes, metal spring back and poly rakes. The flexible tines of both types allow the rake to not get caught on grass yet are sturdy enough to move the leaves. In general, these rakes are not very heavy and leaves are usually light, consider the larger size wide plastic rakes to cover the most area in the least amount of time.

The springback rakes are usually available in 18 or 22-inch widths the plastic ones up to 30” widths. The wider the swath the less rakes per square foot is required.

 

 

 

Shrub rake.

Consider the shrub rake. They are an 8” or 10” wide small rake which looks somewhat like a kid’s toy. Don’t underestimate the usefulness of this small tool. It can be used effectively for preparing the bed edge near the edging for more mulch. The shrub rake is a good option for raking dog dug dirt back into the hole with minimal damage to the turf surrounding the hole. The small rake is designed to rake out leaves and debris from under and around bedding plants and shrubs. It works well for this but also is very useful for a variety of small rake jobs where a bow rake is too aggressive and a leaf rake is too wide and soft.

Bow Rake

Bow rakes are used for breaking up soil and subsoil and to remove debris from the soil. It is also used in landscape beds to prepare for a new layer of mulch. The bow rake is good utility tool for soil and mulch leveling. Using a bow rakes is an aggressive way to rake existing grass when refurbishing it. Whether it is scratching up the surface to prepare a seedbed or raking out undesirable growth from the lawn the bow rake is probably the tool for the job. The bow rakes usually have 16 to 22 metal tines and are 14 to 18 inches wide.

Bow rakes do tend to take a lot of abuse. The rake has to put up with aggressive action taken to break down dirt clumps and loosen hard soil. The bow rake takes additional stress that the other landscape tools do not. To use the rake effectively you pull back on the rake towards your body. What this action tends to do is dislodge the head from the handle. Also if you use a cheap bow rake aggressively the metal end will deform. It is a good idea to buy a good bow rake, don’t get the cheapest one.

Aluminum Landscape Rake

These rakes are typically a flat 30” – 36” aluminum straight tined rake for preparing soil for seeding. They can be used upside down for dragging soil around for leveling purposes. The tined end of the rake also rakes around the soil but removes lumps and debris while making final bed preparations. These rakes are expensive and for a one-time usage it is not a bad idea to rent one for $10.00 instead of purchasing one, unless of course you are an avid tool collector. Make sure you use one with braces it takes a lot of effort to push and pull one of these around so it needs to be a sturdy construction.

Pitchfork

Pitchforks are useful for handling light semi course to coarse mulches. The mulch has to be coarse enough not to easily fall through the tines. If the mulch is somewhat coarse this is a much better tool than a shovel to use. The leading edge of a shovel tends to bounce right off coarser mulch, making it tough to work up a scoop or shovel load.

The tines of the pitchfork stick into the pile and it is easy to pull a fork full out. Don’t underestimate the usefulness of a pitchfork when dealing with semi coarse to coarse mulch, a lot of material can be moved in a hurry. This is typically a tool a homeowner isn’t going to abuse much so a lower end one should suffice.


Hand Tools:

Small Sledge

A small 3 lb sledge (engineer hammer) works well for pounding spikes in predrilled holes when assembling timber walls and other timber structures. A small sledge is also handy to have around when a bigger hammer is needed to vent frustration on a challenging task and really get the job done!

Drill

A cordless drill is used for pre-drilling holes for 8” or 10” galvanized ardox spiral spikes to nail timbers together.

Drill bits

A long drill bit is used for pre-drilling holes for galvanized ardox spiral spikes in landscape timbers.

Landscape Screw bit/driver

Special 8” or 10” screws are manufactured specifically for screwing large landscape timbers together. These specially treated screws are supposed to resist decay from the timber treatment and often require a special bit or driver to screw them in.

Circular Saw

A circular saw can be used to cut timbers in the absence of a large specialty timber-cutting saw. For cutting a large landscape timber (5x5’s 6x6’s 6x8’s) make a cut across the timber at the desired location. Now turn the timber counterclockwise by one side. Using the last cut as a starting point, make another cut across the timber. Repeat for the remaining 2 sides. There should be a cut across the timber from all 4 sides now. There may be a small core in the center of the 4 cuts, which the skill saw might not have reached. This small remaining ½” x ½” section can broke and trimmed or sawed through with a bow saw to complete the cut.

Bow Saw

A bow saw can be used along with a circular saw to cut large landscape timbers. A bow saw is also a tool used for trimming off tree branches larger than 1”.

 

 

Chisel

A chisel 4” wide by about 7” chisel is commonly used in conjunction with a medium small hammer. To break a retaining wall block, use the chisel to pound in linear depressions around the block. Then go back to the side where you started whack the chisel hard to make the block break.

Hand Shovel

A wide blade trowel for light gardening.

 

Hand Weeder

A small poking and prying tool for light gardening.

 

Hacksaw

Used to cut edging, PVC pipe etc.


Measuring and Marking:

Measuring Tape

A standard 20’ – 30’ measuring tape is used to assist with cutting timbers, edging and whatever else may need to be measured and cut to fit. A 100’ roll tape is nice for laying out larger areas.

Marking paint

Marking paint comes in a spray can that can spray straight down out of the nozzle. This is unlike a traditional spray paint which comes out of the side of the nozzle and needs to be held upright. This product can be used to delineate construction lines and areas in a landscape project.

 

Landscape Chalk

Same function as marking paint just more friendly to what is painted.

 

 

String

String is often used to layout retaining walls. It provides a line and level guide for putting up block, rock or timber walls.


Tree and Shrub Tools:

Prunners

Prunners are small hand tools used for cutting small foliage and stems on plants.

 

Loppers

Loppers area used for cutting relatively small branches of up to 3/8” or so.

 

 

 

Hedge shears

Hedge shears are used in spring and fall clean up and when trimming plantings. It is especially handy on tall grasses and to trim and shape bushes.

 

 

Small Saw

A small handsaw is used mostly to trim small to medium branches 3/8” to ¾”.

 

Bow Saw

Bow saws are used for medium and large branch cutting and trimming.


Miscellaneous Tools:

Tarps

Michigan requires loose bulk loads to be covered when transported on public roads. Tarps and bungee cords are used to accomplish this. Tarps are also useful for gathering yard waste from around the house following trimming and spring/fall cleanups. Tarps can also be used to put on the bottom of a pickup truck bed before the bulk material is dumped in to aid in cleanup. Tarps can also be used when digging small holes in the yard for irrigation maintenance or downspout burial projects. The tarp is placed next to where the hole is to be dug in the lawn. A chunk of turf removed from where the hole is going to go and is put aside on the tarp. Next the topsoil is taken out and piled on the tarp. Finally the subsoil is dug out and put in a separate pile on the tarp. Once the fix or installation is done the hole is filled. First the subsoil is put in, then the topsoil then the turf is put back as needed. Extra soil and turf can be dragged away without making a big mess of lawn in the work area.

Brooms

Brooms are handy to clean up after a project. When bulk, soil, mulch or stone is dumped on the driveway and then moved to its resting spot the driveway should be swept up. In general the smoother the surface for which the broom is primarily used for, the softer the bristles should be. Most often brooms are used in the garage and occasionally used on the driveway. Braces are a good sign of a better quality broom. Good brooms last a long time.

Bungee Cord - Rubber

These bungees work well for strapping down tarps.

 

 

 

Hoe and Cultivator

Hoes and cultivators are tools used to work-up or loosen hard soil. This is done to assist with weed removal, and to make the soil a better home for plantings.

 

 

Posthole Digger

Posthole diggers are for digging deep narrow holes for burying posts. These can take some abuse as they are thrust down, especially in hard soil. It is a good idea to get a decent one, don’t buy the cheapest one on the shelf.

 

 

Tamper

Tampers are heavy flat bottom tools which are used to compact soil and subsoil underneath retaining walls, patios etc.

 

 

Axe

Axes are handy to battle roots in construction areas. A root which inhibits installation of a landscape component such as edging, patio or walkway can be removed with some blows from an axe.

 

 

Picks and Mattock

Picks and Mattocks are used to loosen very hard earth in areas where landscape products need to be installed.

 

 

Spreader – Broadcast

Used for even spreading of fertilizer and other organic and inorganic materials on lawns.

 

Spreader –Drop Spreader

Used for seeding a lawn. Seed drops straight out of bottom for a measured application. Not good to use for fertilizers, will result in stripped lawn.

Wheelbarrows

Wheelbarrows are used to move supplies. Wheelbarrows are usually 4 to 6 cubic feet in capacity. If you are moving soil or stone, its unlikely you would get a full wheelbarrow load and still be able to move it. This ability to take on heavy loads brings up the need to buy a decent commercial grade wheelbarrow. If you are getting a 5 cubic yard plus load of soil or stone delivered to your house and you need to move it, a 25 lb chincy wheelbarrow with small tires isn’t the best tool to be hauling the 6-½ plus tons of soil and rock around to the back yard. The task of moving bulk soil and rock is a big one. Get the right tool for the job. A good wheelbarrow will be easier to keep stable, carry more on each trip and be much easier to push with good tires.


Irrigation Tools:

Pipe Cutter

Designed to cut up to 1 ½ inch diameter black poly irrigation pipe, a must have for installation and repair of poly irrigation line.

 

 

Pipe Cutter Blade

Replacement blade for T125 Kwikcut pipe cutter

 

Nut Driver

Small hand nut driver for Stainless screw type clamps on poly pipe.

 

Nut driver Torque wrench.

A must have for any tool aficionado who works on underground irrigation. Very easy to use and perfect torque on stainless screw type clamps for poly pipe.

Impact Head removal tool

This nelson does some nelson products but also is best wrench for rainbird maxi and mini paw impact heads.

 

Crimp clamp tool

Used for clamping down crimp clamps on poly pipe.

 

Valve locator

Helps locate lost underground valves by making the valve click.

 

Nipple Extractor

Aids in removal of nipples stuck in fittings or heads.